How To...Build Your Own Modular Desktop Flight Controls
By Ferry Herfst
Additional Information
Try to use one design philosophy. Go for a Learjet style, Beech,
Boeing or Cessna. I chose the Beech aircraft in FS (though I used a
Piper yoke) but try not to be too specific. Otherwise it will feel
unnatural to fly different aircraft with your hardware. Unless you
want to make an exact copy of a certain cockpit off course. I had two
important design features in mind. Ease of installation and removal
of the set-up and be able to use it for a wide range of aircraft.
Donor Hardware
Logitech offers a nice line of products with lots of features and
updates drivers often. These devices are easily converted. You may
want to try cheaper hardware but I have no idea if they will work as
well. Be very aware that opening it up will void any warranty!
Logitech provides software for programming, but the last time I
checked (already some time ago) it only allowed you to program one device
at the same time.
All my devices are USB which comes in handy because USB is hot
plugable. Setting up my hardware takes just 2 minutes and I am ready
to fly. This includes moving my monitors. I do have an internal 4
port USB hub in my PC. It is conveniently installed in the front of
my PC. As well as two additional USB ports which are a common feature
on most PC's nowadays.
The joysticks need proper calibrating but they allow for differences
in potentiometer values. They do not need to be calibrated every time
the joystick are plugged in. Windows uses the last settings. There is
a certain minimum angle the potentiometer needs to turn to be able to
calibrate it. You just have to try to see what each device needs. It
can even depend on the particular axis.
The game pads on the other hand need no calibrating but are
calibrated as soon as each axis is used for the first time. One
thing to keep in mind is the fact the game pads use some kind of
compensation for the fact that e.g. left up will produce smaller pot
rotation than full left or up. This is due to the fact the joystick
on the pad moves in a circle. A joystick moves in a square.
Chose your device depending on your requirements. I
check my controls free and correct before each flight; this
calibrates the controls. The controls need to be in the neutral
position when plugged in otherwise the neutral position will be
offset for the session. In case I forget, I just pull the plug of the
device concerned out and back in (best not to do this in FS but
beforehand). I do pay attention to which device gets plugged in which
USB port. Windows somehow scans the ports in a certain order and
this in turn determines the order of the devices. When they are out
of order FS will react to the order in which it was programmed. (for
example: joy1 x-axis is ailerons and joy2 x-axis isrudder, when they
are in the wrong order the plane will roll when you use your
rudder).
Button Programming
I use FSUIPC to program the POV buttons. The other joystick buttons
can be programmed using the assignments menu in FS. But you are not
limited to these. Pete Dowson has a list of the FS controls available
on his site and you can edit the FS9.cfg (or FS200x.cfg for older
versions) to add the extra commands. I found FSUIPC sometimes misses
a button press. This may have to do with the length of my button
pulses generated by my circuits but when I tested these FS2000 still
was able to use the POV for 8 different functions depending on
direction. This was lost in FS2002. Fortunately Pete Dowson built
this feature into his module for which I am very thankful. You need
to register it to use this feature but it is well worth it. But it's
best to program the buttons using assignments as far as practicable
or editing the fs9.cfg. This can influence the type of control you
connect to the buttons or the POV. I would not want a failing gear
switch. A frequency swap function on the other hand is not that
critical.
Axes Programming
The axes can be programmed by using the assignments feature in FS.
But you may want to use FSUIPC to tune the way FS responds to your
axes. FSUIPC provides a way to change the center position of the
joystick axis as well as the minimum and maximum deflection (dead
zones at the end can prevent riding the brakes for an entire flight
or fluttering spoilers or inability to cut the mixture fully). FS
uses one half of the throttle axis for reverse and the other half for
normal operation. Feathering also takes up half the of the prop axis.
FSUIPC lets you alter this so your FS reverse starts where your
hardware reverse starts. The same applies to feathering props.
Parts
Finding the right parts can be a little hard. Unfortunately people
don't spend as much time tinkering and this has caused a decrease in
the number of electronics shops and the diversity of available
hardware. At least in the Netherlands.
I bought a lot of my switches and other electronics in Den Haag at
"Stuut en Bruin" (nice to know for people living in Holland) But
sometimes I bought the last of their supply. You have to be careful
if parts will not be available anymore because if it breaks you will
have to rework part of the project. Conrad electronics has a good
online store but I like to see what I buy before I buy it.
Use your imagination and see what else is available. Visit different
hardware stores. I found nice thick nylon rings which proved ideal as
bearings for the yoke rod where the enter the box. Another store had
different rings which were used in the throttle quadrant. Nylon is a
great bearing material which does not need lubrication I used a broom
stick to make the throttle prop and mixture knobs. That took a lot of
woodworking skills I was previously unaware of.
I found nice generic gear wheel sets at a modelling shop. You might
want to try K-nex or Lego or stuff like that. These companies often
sell parts separately or in small expansion packs.
I found it hard to find springs for my project. Sometimes the size
was right but the strength was wrong, or the other way round. You
don't know how the yoke will feel unless you try. I used a CH
products original spring for the roll axis to replace my original
spring which was a little weak. They sell these via their dealers.
They also sell buttons etc. I also got a CH POV switch. More info
can be found on their website.
Try your luck at your local airfield and talk to the mechanics, maybe
they've got something laying around which they are willing to sell.
Maybe they will let you take measurement inside the airplanes or just
look around to get some ideas.
Labels
Labels on your switches are mandatory. I used the Dymo label system. I
got clear film with white letters. This works well on grey
background, even better on a black one. A small downside of the Dymo
film is the fact that it's glossy, while I used satin paint on my
project. If you know someone who owns one of these printers or
similar systems you only need to buy the film. It's not very cheap,
but looks good. It can also help your kids keep track of their
belongings in school ;-) This is often used on real aircraft when
additional or new placards are needed.
Paint
Revell or Humbrol model paints can be used to paint small parts, matte
gloss or satin, available in lots of colors. These were used for
the mixture and prop knobs on the throttle quadrant. The containers
are only 15 ml but will last long. The paint is very durable. Use
several thin layers to get a very nice result. The knobs don't feel
like wood at all. One thick layer will not cure properly leaving you
with a sticky feeling after flying.
Wiring
Try to save on wires by using 1 common ground wire for systems or
buttons which share one ground connection. The yoke features 4
buttons and one rumble motor, I only use 2 ground wires. 4 wires in
each telephone wire means I needed 2 telephone wires running from the
yoke to the box. The Logitech devices have a clustered set-up, often
4 buttons share a common ground, combining groups tends to produce
strange results though.
Expandability And Durability
Always think ahead, as much as possible. Think about leaving room for
future expansion; trust me you'll need it. You'll want it, it's
addictive. I still want to add a rudder trim and aileron trim to the
throttle quadrant. I have a few spare axes and the wires are already
connected, I just need to build the hardware.
Think about easy disassembly, things break down, they will. Soldering
can corrode and produce bad connections, wires will break near
soldering points when you're working on your hardware. Longer wires
will allow you to have easy access as well without the immediate need
to take your hardware apart. Use connectors on circuit boards so you
can take one board out of your hardware without the whole wire
spaghetti attached to it. Think about the stresses parts will have
to face, try to build it strong and durable. You will have a lifelong
on-site service warranty on your device ;-)
Soldering
Get a good soldering iron with a thin tip. I used a 15 watt one for
the circuitry. A damp sponge will help you clean it as you're
working. Clean the tip of the iron to get rid of burned soldering
alloy, this can cause bad soldering connections. You can use
shrinking plastic hose to insulate soldering connections, it is
better and more secure than tape.
Costs
The total cost of the project was approximately between 750 and 800
euros. The yoke was about €450 and the radio panel about
€275. The rest was spent on the throttle quadrant and the
modification of the rudder. The donor devices were 2 joysticks, 2
game pads and 1 rumble pad which add up to about 150 euros. I paid
about 160 euros for the yoke (a Cessna one would have been a lot
cheaper). Electronics have a tendency to add up, between 2 and 5
euros for one switch. Encoders are not cheap either, 5 euros each,
and another 5 for the knob. Using 14 of these will add up to
€140. Not mentioning the IC's etc.
Wood, aluminum, etc. are the cheapest parts. Nuts and bolts
are not that expensive either. It does pay to shop around. The
clamps I used to fix the yoke and throttle to my desk were available
at two stores, where one was twice as expensive, the only difference
was a brand name on the expensive ones.
I just don't think about the time spent on the project otherwise it
would seem unaffordable! The radio panel was built in my spare time
wile I was a full time flight instructor. The yoke and throttle were
built in about 2 months time during a period when I was partly
unemployed. The rudder modification only took a couple of
afternoons.
About The Author
I live in The Netherlands and I started with FS in 1989 using FS3 at
the age of 13. I started glider flying at 16. Somewhere around that
time I built my first FS hardware--rudder pedals. After school I got
my written ATPL. I got my CPL and Instrument Rating in 1997. During
that time I worked in a well known aviation shop in Aalsmeerderbrug
as a flightsim specialist. After that I flew on the PA31 and worked
on becoming a flight instructor. In 2000 I became a full time flight
instructor. I even use FS during ground school to explain for
instance VOR and ADF.
Disclaimer
The information provided may not be sold on. The use of the
information provided is at your own risk. Damage to you or your
property resulting from any of the things I wrote down is not my
fault. Take proper precautions, and a lot of common sense! I know I
hurt myself a few times during this project, but I survived with no
permanent damage ;-)
Ferry Herfst
The Netherlands
Navajo_ArcherII@hotmail.com
Links To All Article Parts
Part 1: Introduction And Radio Panel
Part 2: A Bit On Electronics
Part 3: Building The Yoke
Part 4: Building The Throttle Quadrant
Part 5: Modifying The Rudder And Adding Brakes
Part 6: The Finished Project And Some Modifications
Part 7: Additional Information
